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woody meristem

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Reply with quote  #21 
If you've got water in your case I'll bet it's a leak. I've occasionally had some condensation on the inside of the case, but never enough to puddle in the bottom. That sounds like a minor leak somewhere. Another benefit of the Cuttler/Hamer (now Eaton) steel box is that there's hardly ever any water on the Pelican box except on the front around the glasses and Fresnel, but the gasket is well protected from rain or snow. I don't know of a readily available steel box to fit the Otterbox cases.
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wvridgerunner

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Reply with quote  #22 
Thanks for the info Woody. I'll replace the rope seal that's in the Pelican with a new rope seal. Not sure what to do regarding the Dolfin case? I may remove the board and camera and do another dunk test to see if I can locate the leak. Not sure how to go about fixing a leak on the Dolfin, since the seal is much smaller than the rope seals? I don't think the leak is coming from the fresnel or glasses, because those areas were dry. As I said, these builds were outside during some fairly extreme temp changes, as well as 2-3 very hard rain storms. There were about 4-6 drops of water puddled in the bottom of both cases.
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zaj56

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Reply with quote  #23 
It still could be condensation.   i had a cam that had about the same amount from time to time and dunk-tested it for an hour....and never had a drop enter. Also, if the outside of the case is wet when you open it , sometimes a few drops will fall in the inside as you open the case. On the pelican cases I do not close the purge hole like many builders do .  If you dunk test I would remove the cam and fill the inside of the case with tissues and then dunk the case in water with food coloring so it will be easier to see where the leak is. I had one cam that the toggle switch was hitting the back of the case(batteries and the camera can do this also) when closed and this was just enough to have it leak at the seal.
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wvridgerunner

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Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaj56
It still could be condensation.   i had a cam that had about the same amount from time to time and dunk-tested it for an hour....and never had a drop enter. Also, if the outside of the case is wet when you open it , sometimes a few drops will fall in the inside as you open the case. On the pelican cases I do not close the purge hole like many builders do .  If you dunk test I would remove the cam and fill the inside of the case with tissues and then dunk the case in water with food coloring so it will be easier to see where the leak is. I had one cam that the toggle switch was hitting the back of the case(batteries and the camera can do this also) when closed and this was just enough to have it leak at the seal.


Turns out it was just condensation from the fluctuating temps and some rain + humidity/fog coming off the river beside my house. After a 2hr dunk test in water with food coloring I found zero leaks in any of my builds. Also, the cams were secured fairly loose using a python cable, so I don't think that would've caused any leaks from warping.

Any info on how to close/open or remove the purge valve on the pelicans? I've never used these cases but have a 1060 and 1020 for my next 2 builds. I plan on drilling a pipe through at the purge valve location on both builds. Didn't know if I should just drill through everything or if the valve can be popped out?
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don

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Reply with quote  #25 
There have been one or two occasions where I ran the pipethru tube thru the purge hole. Just center your bit and start drilling and the plastic valve will pop right out.
DAP Clear Silicone works well on worn seals, I've ran a thin layer on leaking bulk rope seals as well as the seals used in the Otterbox cases and not had a problem with a leak since. Doesn't take much, let the case set open for at least 24 hours afterwards and you should have good results in your dunk testing.

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wvridgerunner

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Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by don
There have been one or two occasions where I ran the pipethru tube thru the purge hole. Just center your bit and start drilling and the plastic valve will pop right out.
DAP Clear Silicone works well on worn seals, I've ran a thin layer on leaking bulk rope seals as well as the seals used in the Otterbox cases and not had a problem with a leak since. Doesn't take much, let the case set open for at least 24 hours afterwards and you should have good results in your dunk testing.


Thanks for the info Don. All the builds I dunk tested last weekend seemed to be free of leaks, but I'll keep the Dap Silicone in mind for the future. I'm assuming you just spread a thin film over the top  of a leaking seal? Or do you remove the seal and run a bead of DAP underneath, to "lift up" the leaking seal? I have a bunch of the replacement rope seal I'll use for any leaky Pelican or Walmart cases, but the DAP might come in handy on my Otterbox builds.
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don

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Reply with quote  #27 
I just applied a thin layer to the seal without removing it. I've used the method on both the Pelican cases (original and rope seals) as well as the as the Otterboxes.
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